Books about Bearded Dragons .......... Books about miscellaneous lizards.... |
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General info
about Beardies
The reason why I bought
a Bearded Dragon is that I heard that they become unusual tame
compared to all other kinds of lizards. The name of the specie
in latin is Pogona Vitticeps, and originally they originate from
the deserts of Australia , where it is even possible to pick up
wild ones by the hand. They are a diurnal (day time active) lizard
which has a fearless and out-going personality.The inland bearded
dragon has a huge range in the interior of Australia, ranging
from the subtropical woodlands, to the savannahs, and into the
great interior deserts. They spend most of their time perched
on logs, rocks or tree trunks, ready to approach any food item.
Bearded dragons are omnivorous, and feed on a variety of insects,
any small animal they can overpower, and flowers, greenery and
fruits. They live in an environment that can be very harsh, so
bearded dragons are adapted to eat almost any food that is available
during lean seasons. They also can store nutrients in huge abdominal
fat bodies, and dig into the ground and aestivate for long periods
during unfavorable times. Even in captivity, certain environmental
conditions may trigger the bearded dragons to hide in a sheltered
spot in the cage, and go dormant for a few weeks, only to appear
one day and start eating and behaving as though such activities
are just part of being a bearded dragon!
The cage
It is
important that they have got enought space in the cage. The wattage
of the spotlight needs to be adjusted to allow the dragons to
reach a body temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit after basking
under the light for an hour, as they need to get very warm to
digest their food. Arrange the rocks and branches to provide several
basking levels. Arrange branches and add shelters so the hatchlings
can choose from a range of temperatures and heights to maintain
their optimum body temperature. A full spectrum, ultraviolet A
emitting fluorescent lamp should be suspended over the cage, and
perches arranged so lizards can bask within 6 inches of the bulb,
so they can absorb the UV-A to manufacture their vitamin D3 for
bone formation. The substrate can be washed sand or newspaper,
etc. A very shallow water pan should be placed in the cage where
the lizards will run through it. They should be sprayed with water
every day, both on the cage and on their heads. They often lap
water as it is sprayed on them. Keep a fine mist of spray directed
on their heads as long as they keep lapping up the water. The
hatchlings require a dry cage, but need to drink a lot of water.
Some learn to drink from their water dish, but if they get thin
and dehydrated it will be necessary to adjust their conditions
by getting them to ingest more water via increased sprayings,
providing fresh moist vegetables, or warming or cooling the cage.
Under optimum conditions, bearded dragons grow fast, and can reach
adult size in 12 months.
Feeding
Beardies
eats crickets, mealworms and different kinds of vegetables, for
e.g. broccoli, carrots, mustard, cabbage, corn, bell peppers,
peas etc. Vegetables such as iceberg lettuce and others that lack
color (they also usually lack in vitamins) should not be fed.
The dragons should be offered greens and finely chopped mixed
vegetables every day. Be careful with fruits though, since they
rotten very quickly by the heat from the light. A calcium supplement
containing vitamin D3, such as Rep-Cal (R), should be lightly
sprinkled on food items every other day or so to promote healthy
bone growth. If the lips start to separate, or the hind legs go
into spasm, or are held out stiffly, you need to supply more calcium
and D3. Caution should be exercised when using multi-vitamin supplements,
as bearded dragons are very susceptible to vitamin A toxicity,
characterized by a swelling of the throat, and proceeding to a
bloating of the body and lethargy. If the baby dragons get sick,
and exhibit erratic behavior, and can't eat and drink on their
own you need to assist-feed them. Prepare a solution of chicken
baby food mixed with water and Rep-Cal, and a tiny bit of multi-vitamin,
all mixed to a gruel-like consistency, and deliver it to the tip
of the snout with an eyedropper. The baby dragon will shortly
drink in this drop hanging on its lips, and once the drinking
reflex begins, you can apply the eyedropper to the snout, and
allow the dragon to drink its full. Stop to allow the dragon to
breathe, then see if it will take more. You may have to continue
this for several days. Don't wait for the dragon to get weak and
dehydrated. Treat it immediately and its chance for recovery is
better. Keep it separated from cage mates till it again eats well
on its own.
Take a look at the books, as well as the linked pages where you can find lots of useful information if you are about getting a BD !